Kinematics of waves propagating and breaking on a barred beach

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dc.contributor.authorMichallet, H.
dc.contributor.authorCienfuegos, R.
dc.contributor.authorBarthelemy, E.
dc.contributor.authorGrasso, F.
dc.date.accessioned2024-01-10T13:14:12Z
dc.date.available2024-01-10T13:14:12Z
dc.date.issued2011
dc.description.abstractLaboratory experiments are conducted in a wave facility with a loose sediment beach in order to estimate the wave characteristics needed for sediment transport modeling. A roller model and a Boussinesq-type model are used for comparing and discussing the experimental results. It is shown that the velocity skewness and acceleration skewness evolutions along the beach profile can be estimated from measurements of surface elevations. The roller model correctly reproduces the set-up and undertow measurements as long as the cross-shore variations of the second-order moment of the free surface displacement are taken into account. The Boussinesq model correctly reproduces the wave non-linearities with some discrepancies in the breaking region over the bar topography. (C) 2011 Elsevier Masson SAS. All rights reserved.
dc.description.funderINSU
dc.description.funderConicyt
dc.fechaingreso.objetodigital22-03-2024
dc.format.extent11 páginas
dc.fuente.origenWOS
dc.identifier.doi10.1016/j.euromechflu.2010.12.004
dc.identifier.eissn1873-7390
dc.identifier.issn0997-7546
dc.identifier.urihttps://doi.org/10.1016/j.euromechflu.2010.12.004
dc.identifier.urihttps://repositorio.uc.cl/handle/11534/78383
dc.identifier.wosidWOS:000297874100008
dc.information.autorucIngeniería;Cienfuegos R ;S/I;8598
dc.issue.numero6
dc.language.isoen
dc.nota.accesocontenido parcial
dc.pagina.final634
dc.pagina.inicio624
dc.publisherGAUTHIER-VILLARS/EDITIONS ELSEVIER
dc.revistaEUROPEAN JOURNAL OF MECHANICS B-FLUIDS
dc.rightsacceso restringido
dc.subjectNearshore
dc.subjectSurf zone
dc.subjectCross-shore hydrodynamics
dc.subjectUndertow
dc.subjectSkewness
dc.subjectAsymmetry
dc.subjectBOUSSINESQ-TYPE EQUATIONS
dc.subjectFINITE-VOLUME SCHEME
dc.subjectSURF ZONE
dc.subjectSEDIMENT TRANSPORT
dc.subjectLONGSHORE-CURRENT
dc.subjectPART I
dc.subjectMODEL
dc.subjectTRANSFORMATION
dc.subjectUNDERTOW
dc.subjectSIMULATION
dc.subject.ods14 Life Below Water
dc.subject.ods13 Climate Action
dc.subject.odspa14 Vida submarina
dc.subject.odspa13 Acción por el clima
dc.titleKinematics of waves propagating and breaking on a barred beach
dc.typeartículo
dc.volumen30
sipa.codpersvinculados8598
sipa.indexWOS
sipa.indexScopus
sipa.trazabilidadCarga SIPA;09-01-2024
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