Browsing by Author "Suarez, L."

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    Barred-beach morphological control on infragravity motion
    (2012) Almar, R.; Cienfuegos Carrasco, Rodrigo Alberto; Gonzalez, Eduardo; Catalán, P.; Michallet, H.; Bonneton, P.; Castelle, B.; Suarez, L.
    A conceptual analysis of the coupling between bars and infragravity waves is performed combining laboratory experiments and numerical modeling. Experiments are carried out in a wave flume with a barred profile. The Boussinesq fully-nonlinear model SERR1D is validated with the laboratory data and a sensitivity analysis is performed next to study the influence on the infragravity wave dynamics of bar amplitude and location, and swash zone slope. A novel technique of incident and reflected motions separation that conserves temporal characteristics is applied. We observe that changing bar characteristics induces substantial variations in trapped energy. Interestingly, a modification of swash zone slope has a large influence on the reflected component, controlling amplitude and phase time-lag, and consequently on the resonant pattern. Variations of trapped infragravity energy induced by changes of swash zone slope reach 25 %. These changes in infragravity pattern consequently affect short-wave dynamics by modifying the breakpoint location and the breaking intensity. Our conceptual investigation suggests the existence of a morphological feedback through the action of evolving morphology on infragravity structures which modulates the action of short-waves on the morphology itself.
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    Numerical computation of infragravity wave dynamics and velocity profiles using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model
    (2010) Cienfuegos Carrasco, Rodrigo Alberto; Duarte, L.; Suarez, L.; Catalán, P.A.
    We present experimental and numerical analysis of nonlinear processes responsible for generating infragravity waves in the nearshore. We provide new experimental data on random wave propagation and associated velocity profiles in the shoaling and surf zones of a very mild slope beach. We analyze low frequency wave generation mechanisms and dynamics along the beach and examine in detail the ability of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq- type model SERR1D (Cienfuegos et al., 2010) to reproduce the complex dynamics of high frequency wave propagation and energy transfer mechanisms that enhance infragravity wave generation in the laboratory.