Browsing by Author "Lucero, Felipe"

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    ASSESSMENT OF FAST SPECTRAL WAVE TRANSFER METHODOLOGIES FROM DEEP TO SHALLOW WATERS IN THE FRAMEWORK OF ENERGY RESOURCE QUANTIFICATION IN THE CHILEAN COAST
    (2014) Domínguez, Juan Carlos; Cienfuegos, Rodrigo; Catalán, Patricio; Zamorano, Luis; Lucero, Felipe
    Alternative wave transfer methodologies from deep to shallow water that aim at reducing the computational time in cases where the full propagation of a large number of wave climates is often prohibitive are defined and tested against full spectral propagation using complex measured wave climates. A proposed method is presented in this work which is able to accurately reproduce the shape transformation of directional spectra while significantly reducing the computational time. Another transfer method is also validated, which can achieve relatively good results when there is no spectral information and only statistical wave parameters (e.g. significant wave height, peak period and mean wave direction) are available. Finally, an application of the proposed method in the framework of energy resource quantification in Chile is presented.
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    Soliton gas dynamics and rogue wave enhancement in a natural coastal environment
    (2025) Cienfuegos, Rodrigo; Catalán, Patricio A.; Flores, Raúl P.; Guerra, Maricarmen; Lucero, Felipe; Galaz, José; Wahls, Sander; Díaz, Paola; Gómez, Rodolfo; Esparza, César
    We document a field experiment in which a path to strongly interacting soliton gas dynamics is observed within an intermittently open/closed estuary. We show that the shallow estuary mouth acts as a low-pass filter for incoming ocean waves, damping energy within the swell frequency band (0.04–1 Hz) and allowing surf-zone generated infragravity waves (frequency band 0.004–0.04 Hz) to enter the semienclosed shallow lagoon formed near the estuary mouth. These long waves penetrate under highly nonlinear conditions with Ursell numbers consistent with multisoliton fission regimes. The 𝑘–𝜔 spectrum of the incident wave trains is consistent with solitonic kinematics, demonstrating that solitons are released by the fission of incoming infragravity waves at the lagoon entrance. Continuous injection of solitonic wave trains and intense wave-wave interactions enhanced by the shallow and gradually varying bathymetry within the estuary lagoon lead to a quasistationary soliton gas regime with a substantially increased probability of rogue wave occurrence compared with linear wave theory. The Korteweg-de Vries nonlinear Fourier transform reveals that nearly half of the measured signal energy is explained by solitonic modes, confirming the key role that solitons have in enhancing rogue wave emergence in natural coastal settings.