A new breaking wave height direct estimator from video imagery
link https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.12.004account_box Almar, Rafaelaccount_box Cienfuegos, Rodrigoaccount_box Catalan, Patricio A.account_box Michallet, Herveaccount_box Castelle, Brunoaccount_box Bonneton, Philippeaccount_box Marieu, Vincent
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Breaker height is a key parameter of nearshore processes and the demand for a continuous remote estimator is pressing. In this paper we present a standalone remote video-based method that estimates wave height at the breakpoint. Individual breaking events are first identified from changes in optical properties and wave height is further derived from the optical signature at the onset of breaking. An extended validation is performed using a dense wave basin dataset. The results show the ability of the method to measure individual breaker heights (9% of mean error, 18% RMS). In addition, the unique combination of in situ and remotely sensed data allows the estimation of two other breaking-related parameters, the height-to-depth ratio and wave front face slope, which show a substantial amount of dispersion. Because nearshore video systems are rapidly spreading over world coasts, this low-cost remote breaker height estimator should encounter large interest in coastal engineering studies. (C) 2011 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
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| Autor | Almar, Rafael Cienfuegos, Rodrigo Catalan, Patricio A. Michallet, Herve Castelle, Bruno Bonneton, Philippe Marieu, Vincent |
| Título | A new breaking wave height direct estimator from video imagery |
| Revista | COASTAL ENGINEERING |
| ISSN | 0378-3839 |
| ISSN electrónico | 1872-7379 |
| Volumen | 61 |
| Página inicio | 42 |
| Página final | 48 |
| Fecha de publicación | 2012 |
| Resumen | Breaker height is a key parameter of nearshore processes and the demand for a continuous remote estimator is pressing. In this paper we present a standalone remote video-based method that estimates wave height at the breakpoint. Individual breaking events are first identified from changes in optical properties and wave height is further derived from the optical signature at the onset of breaking. An extended validation is performed using a dense wave basin dataset. The results show the ability of the method to measure individual breaker heights (9% of mean error, 18% RMS). In addition, the unique combination of in situ and remotely sensed data allows the estimation of two other breaking-related parameters, the height-to-depth ratio and wave front face slope, which show a substantial amount of dispersion. Because nearshore video systems are rapidly spreading over world coasts, this low-cost remote breaker height estimator should encounter large interest in coastal engineering studies. (C) 2011 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved. |
| Derechos | acceso restringido |
| Agencia financiadora | project FONDECYT project BARBEC project BARCAN (LEFE/INSU) Pontificia Universidad Catolica de Chile |
| DOI | 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.12.004 |
| Editorial | ELSEVIER SCIENCE BV |
| Enlace | |
| Id de publicación en WoS | WOS:000300866900005 |
| Paginación | 7 páginas |
| Palabra clave | Remote sensing Wave measurement Laboratory experiment Roller Wave front face angle Height-to-depth ratio Coastal management NEARSHORE BATHYMETRY MODEL INVERSION |
| Tema ODS | 13 Climate Action 14 Life Below Water |
| Tema ODS español | 13 Acción por el clima 14 Vida submarina |
| Tipo de documento | artículo |